Christopher Ræburn × Save The Duck

13.01.2017

The new collaboration between Christopher Ræburn and Save The Duck for AW17 was unveiled on Wednesday at Pitti Uomo in the form of an exciting and playful installation. The collection itself entitled "RECYCLE" draws inspiration from nature and events that mark the coming and going of the seasons and the changing of weather. As such, the capsule offering aims to provide protection from the elements in the most innovative, adaptable and sustainable of ways. Iconic Save the Duck attributes such as PLUMTECH® padding, heat sealed seams and highly performing recycled fabrics provide the foundation for the radical design approach.

Raeburn plays to his strengths through the deconstruction and reconstruction of original military garments to provide iconic, innovative garments that are rich in authentic detailing. Camouflage field jackets and bomber with patchwork heat-sealed seams become protective shells and thermal linings become indispensable to protect yourself in unstable and unpredictable weather. As always, considered sourcing is of paramount importance for both brands and all materials have been chosen inline with the “ANIMAL FRIENDLY” mission of Save the Duck.

The capsule collection will be distributed in time for Autumn '17 to select luxury stores globally in collaboration with the showroom Tomorrow.

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AW17 CUT N' SHUT at LFWM

12.01.2017

We unveiled our AW17 collection last Sunday at London Fashion Week Men's. Taking inspiration from Ellsworth Kelly's deceptive, ground breaking and humorous ghost army, the collection aims to conceal, confuse and reveal in a playful innovative experiment of deconstruction and reconstruction. The Christopher Ræburn REMADE, REDUCED, RECYCLED ethos has been further emphasized through the use of bomb disposal uniforms, blankets and camouflage jackets; each piece lovingly crafted in our East London Remade studio and underpinned with authentic detailing and considered thinking.

Backstage photography by Amy Platt

Collaboration still being a key component of our approach to design, we're proud to introduce a new collaboration with Eastpak. The three-piece capsule collection of bags features remade camouflage and fluorescent detailing Remade in Europe to the highest standard and strictly limited to 100 pieces per sytle.

Keeping things local, we're also excited to introduce of new collaboraton with East London denim maker Blackhorse Lane Atelier. Part of our Reduced initiative, we've teamed up to create a line of of high quality organic denim jeans, individually numbered with Remade pocket detailing. Finally, our ongoing collaboration with Clarks continues in the form of high top boots with utilitarian detailing, interpreting advanced sustainability with style. The Avery dennison RBIS collaboration continues to deliver high quality recycled woven labelling and branding solutions visible throughout the collection.

Special thanks to the British Fashion Council, Ben Grimes (casting), Dominic Harwood (sound), Blonstein (production), Fudge Professional (hair), AOFM (make-up), Exposure (PR), Régis Tosetti & Simon Palmieri (art direction), FALKE (socks). Contributors: Eastpak, Blackhorse Lane Atelier, Clarks, Avery Dennison RBIS.

More information to come soon on Christopher Ræburn.


REMADE 2016: Hainsworth Wool

22.09.2016

In collaboration with The Woolmark Company and woolen mill A.W. Hainsworth, the Christopher Ræburn AW16 womenswear collection features some of the most distinctive REMADE designs to date. The REMADE line takes its inspiration from utilitarian and predominantly military clothing (from where many enduring designs have their origins) and their history. Since as early as 2001 Christopher has adapted and reconstructed surplus military pieces into contemporary garments and accessories. 

The first Christopher Ræburn jackets to feature Hainsworth wool were actually part of Christopher Ræburn's first ever collection, remaking new pieces from woollen British 'battle dress jackets', made from Hainsworth cloth. Yet when looking for local dead stock wool for more outerwear designs, Christopher Ræburn was led directly back to the source, Hainsworth's mill in Yorkshire. And in keeping with Hainsworth's own efforts to be as efficient and sustainable as they can be, dead stock Hainsworth wool and offcuts have been used in outerwear, accessories, dresses, trousers and the infamous Christopher Ræburn mascots since 2010.

A.W. Hainsworth has made woollen cloth since 1783. The company established by Abimelech William Hainsworth has since then clothed royalty in the most important ceremonies, as well as emergency and military services around the world. Hainsworth have in fact been supplying the British Military and the War Office with cloth since the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. Indeed the term ‘the Thin Red Line’ was named after the distinctive scarlet Hainsworth fabric of the British regiments, coined in the English press after the Battle of Balaclava. Of course at the end of the 19th century the requirements were for a cloth that was more protective in colour and would better conceal the troops so Hainsworth worked closely with Leeds University and developed the first Khaki Serge in 1899. But the scarlet wool endures.

All Hainsworth fabrics are woven by dedicated and skilled craftsmen and the mill is a vertical one, meaning every part of the process is completed on site from the blending of raw wool right through to the careful finishing and dyeing processes. Most of the wool Hainsworth produce is merino and comes from New Zealand and Australia: It is very soft, this is due to the climate in which it is grown, warm and sunny temperatures don’t require a thick wiry coat which would normally protect the sheep from cold, wind and rain. Merino wool is also highly breathable; its fibres can absorb large quantities of moisture and move it away from the skin for fast evaporation. The fibres also have the ability to adapt to changes in body temperature, keeping the wearer warm in cold conditions and cool when the environment heats up.

The functionality of their fabrics is paramount, and today Hainsworth produce a number of technical patented protective fabrics, including working with DuPont for jet fighter pilot uniforms, and Nomex and Kevlar for fire service apparel all over the world. Interestingly, many fire services used wool up until the early 1980s. The mill also makes fabrics for the interiors of rail and aviation vehicles. With their own in-house UKAS accredited laboratory, Hainsworth offer a range of standard tests for evaluating specific textile properties, both physical and chemical, to make sure they are suitable for their end purpose, but especially for the technical and protective fabrics that need to meet industry standards. And it's not just the military and service industries that benefit from the Yorkshire mill's products. In 1992 Hainsworth purchased EJ Riley, snooker table manufacturers, and added cloth to their range. The cloth produced at Hainsworth is applied in plenty of other ways: from blankets and cushions to technical felts found inside the workings of Steinway pianos. 

REMADE Ceremonial Biker Jacket

But everywhere you go at Hainsworth, you are reminded of that one fabric in particular; the scarlet wool. Still used in Her Majesty's Royal Guardsmen tunics, the blood red merino wool is unmistakably British. The fabric has changed slightly over the years – it now contains a small amount of nylon which makes the fabric more hard wearing – but it still has that same look as it has since the Battle of Waterloo. Hainsworth's dye house also perform rigorous tests to obtain a uniform distribution of colour throughout the fabric and ensure consistency of shade from batch to batch. The colour of their fabrics do not fade, so the ceremonial uniforms you see could range from two to 20 years old, but the colour will remain consistent throughout. And each individual regiment who use the scarlet wool have their own individual decorations and buttons, embroidered and attached by military tailors.

The natural versatility and adaptability merino wool offers (as well as how beautiful it is to touch and wear) make it one of the most enduring fabrics in the Christopher Ræburn collection. And it is the guardsman's ceremonial jackets that exemplify the structure, handle and colour which Hainsworth fabric is renowned for. The standout piece in this season's women's collection is the REMADE Ceremonial Biker Jacket, crafted from deconstructed and reworked original Guardsman's tunics. Originally constructed by military tailors, these garments have beautiful raw edges,  with tightly woven and consistent cloth and expert finishing, including the various embroidery, badges and buttons.

Constructing a REMADE product:

  • Christopher and his team spend time searching warehouses and websites for dead stock and surplus military textiles.
  • Today the archive at the REMADE Studio holds over 1000 different military and service garments and artefacts.
  • For this season's Ceremonial Biker Jacket design a total of 50 Guardsman's ceremonial tunics were sourced.
  • The jacket is cleaned and checked for defects  and then carefully deconstructed with scalpels and fabric scissors.
  • Patterns are then cut and components prepared for the machinist.
  • The new design is then stitched and sewn into the new shape, with zips and embellishments attached.

#REMADEinEngland 


London Fashion Week: FELDER FELDER

19.09.2016

Pictures credit: Neale Haynes

London based brand FELDER FELDER, established by sisters Annette and Daniela Felder while studying at Central Saint Martins in 2007, has unveiled its standout piece ahead of their show at London Fashion Week. As their last collection saw jumpsuits and blouses made of recycled glass and CDs and plastic embroidery on outerwear, the twins are supporting sustainable fashion again in their SS17 Collection, particulary affected by documentary 'The True Cost'. 

The 2015 documentary directed by Andrew Morgan draws attention to fast fashion and its consequences: while prices have been decreasing, the human and environmental costs have dramatically grown. Exploring social and psychological aspects, including consumerism, the movie features interviews with the world’s leading influencers including Stella McCartney, Livia Firth and Vandana Shiva.

“For us, the sustainable fashion angle is important going forward. In our own lives, we live quite consciously - so we decided it was time to translate that into our brand and try to reduce the wastage that you unfortunately have in fashion.” –  Annette Felder

In honour of their 10th anniversary, the two German designers presented their first of their 10-piece collection. The eco-friendly dress is part of a line created with the exclusive use of up-cycled and sustainable fabrics. Inspired and made of the carbon fibre from "BMW i" sustainable vehicle programme, the dress appears like a soft fibre tasseled dress with a strong fringing detailing.


Disney | Christopher Ræburn

15.09.2016

"Oh boy!" This week sees the launch of a Christopher Ræburn collaboration with none other than Walt Disney. And more specifically, the two most iconic cartoon mice in the world. Designed and developed over the last 12 months at the east London studio, through seven stages of prototyping, Christopher and his team worked closely with a Disney character artist to ensure the accuracy of the characters in leather and denim form.

"To work with the Walt Disney Company is not only a huge honour, it’s thrilling to create something that really represents exactly what we’re about as a brand.” said Christopher Raeburn. “Collaboration, playfulness and innovative design are in our DNA, and this project has all these elements.We also worked hard to source the best materials and reduce waste on the packaging.”

Christopher Ræburn worked closely with Disney to ensure the accuracy of the characters, whilst staying true to the brand’s ethos of sustainability.

The bags are made from ethically sourced nappa leather or organic European milled indigo denim. The multi-purpose design has a zipped compartment at the back of the body and a strap that adjusts to two lengths. The straps can be worn over the shoulder or held around the wrist.

Each bag comes presented in a reusable hexagonal box. Easily flat packed and made from 100% recycled materials, the packaging has been produced by Christopher Raeburn's close manufacturing partner, Avery Dennison RBIS.

“To join up with a company that has brought joy to millions with their characters and stories is amazing. We hope to continue the love for these fun and original cartoon icons.”

Mickey and Minnie will debut this weekend at London Fashion Week and will be available online at ChristopherRæburn.co.uk, and available to collect from the new Ræburn studio in London, in-store at The Conran Store in London, plus a host of international retail partners. The Minnie style will also be available in pink nappa leather, exclusively at Selfridges.


Ræburn Recommends: The London Design Biennale

08.09.2016

The London Design Biennale has launched its long awaited exhibition at Somerset House this week. Including different types of recently commissioned installations and artworks from over 30 countries all over the world, the exhibition is focused on artists, designers and makers translating the concept of social and environmental utopia, paying particular attention to the concepts of sustainability, migration, pollution, energy, cities, and social equality. 

With a wide roster of curators including Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum (USA), DAMnº Magazine (Belgium), German Design Council, the MAK and Austria Design Net, Moscow Design Museum (Russia), Triennale Design Museum (Italy), India Design Forum, Southern Guild (South Africa), The Japan Foundation, and Victoria and Albert Museum (UK), the exhibition involves every aspect of the creative process, with contributions from architects, designers, scientists, artists and writers. 

The London Design Biennale experience also includes a diverse and solid talks programme, that will run throughout the duration of the exhibition and will be held by some of the world’s best academics, designers or experts in the field. The programme will kick off in the Mexican pavilion, with a conference about a binational city on the controversial border between Mexico and USA. 

Conceived as a world tour of ideas and future visions, the exhibition is on show until September 27.

 

http://www.londondesignbiennale.com/


AW16 Wintercamp

27.07.2016

The AW16 menswear collection takes us to the desolate steppes of Mongolia, finding tactile textures and rich colours, as worn by the nomadic people who inhabit this awesome place. Sustainable and natural fabrics mix with colour and technique to reflect Mongolian craftsmanship and culture, and the strength of the people there who sustain there fascinating folk traditions.

“For this season we discovered inpsiration in one of the most amazing landscapes on the planet." says Christopher Ræburn. "The nomadic peoples of Mongolia have incredible traditions, and we've used materials, icons and silouhettes based on this to create AW16 Wintercamp."

Sustainability and longevity is also key to the collection, with REMADE pieces constructed from military materials, morphing into modern menswear pieces. The print and embroidery uses both iconography and handrawn illustrations featuring Mongolian winter camp scenes, the endangered snow leopard and cyrillic script. In contrast, there are woolen hand knitted garments that echo a more rudimentary style of insulation and form.

Alongside this are classic Christopher Ræburn pieces, such as the Wool Parka, Quilted Bomber, and the immortal CR Gilet. Updates have also been made to Bomber Jacket styles and the Zip Pocket Joggers. Elsewhere the accessories feature essential pieces such as the Lightweight Packaway Tote and Daypack, using recycled polyester fill and iconic diamond quilt detailing.

 

 

 


The Archive: SPECTRAL LINE SS12

13.07.2016

The Christopher Ræburn SS12 collection marked a further step in the designer's evolution, presenting not only unique outerwear, but ready-to-wear pieces and bold new colour and pattern experimentation in an eye-catching group of garments that asserted the brand's vision. It was the year the Olympics came to east London, virtually next door to the CR studio, then in Hackney Wick.

While playing with different shades and colours, Christopher Ræburn stayed true to the original founding principles: REMADE in England and sustainability. 

The REMADE technique has always been central to CR design. Marrying high quality craftwork and production process, all these limited edition REMADE pieces are deconstructed and then reconstructed from European military materials, fabrics and clothing. 

In SS12, Swiss military macs were converted into Swiss Pac-Away Jackets and Swiss Bombers, limited to just 50 pieces worldwide. 

The 'Lightweight' feature was kept throughout the entire collection; a wide range of garments being produced in parachute fabric, resulting in a line of light parkas and jackets that feature integrated bags for compact functionality, as well as smart draw cords to shape the waist and sleeve points.

Also British military fabrics and German Parka linings were involved in the season’s REMADE process, and high visibility vests could be found alongside the seasonal mascot, a reflective squirrel.

Bringing along his interest in the British industry and textiles, locally sourced fabrics, such as the Wax Cotton, were used for for jackets and kimonos. A fresh addition to SS12 was the use of 100% organic jersey cotton with t-shirts, hoodie dresses and jackets.

 


Bill Cunningham

27.06.2016

Acclaimed fashion journalist, photographer and hat designer, Bill Cunningham, who died at 87 this past weekend, has been a central personality of the New York fashion scene. Photographing the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Katharine Hepburn and Jacqueline Bouvier, he has been one of the most important street fashion photographers of all time, internationally known as the pioneer of ‘fashion on the street’.  As much as his pictures, his journalistic pieces of work are remembered to be the introducers of French fashion in the American scene, presenting to the New York audiences names such as Azzedine Alaia and Jean Paul Gaultier.

When he began writing for Women’s Wear Daily and the Chicago Tribune in his thirties, he was fascinated by womenswear and hats to the point that he started taking candid photographs on the streets of NYC. Published in 1978, his first pictures soon became a regular series (known as ‘On the Street’) in the Times. With a democratic fashion sense, his photographs portrayed clothing as a personal expression, not related to paparazzi or celebrity, choosing instead a genuine style. 

Bill Cunninghm/The New York Times  

"More than anyone else in the city, he has the whole visual history of the last 40 or 50 years of New York. It's the total scope of fashion in the life of New York". – Oscar de la Renta 

Taking impromptu pictures of everyday people as well as of celebrities and fashion personalities of Manhattan, the self taught photographer was personally valued by most of them, even though his aim was just to take pictures and not enter the Manhattan world of socialites. 

His repertoire includes several series of pictures and a world recognised exhibition in 2014 entitled “Bill Cunningham: Façades” at the New York Historical Society, alongside different awards, such as the Outstanding photographer of the year in 1983 by CFDA, the Carnegie Hall Medal of Excellence, or the Living Landmark by the New York Landmarks Conservancy for his singularity. 

Famous for his simple uniform and for travelling around NYC by bicycle, in his nearly 40 years working for The Times, he will always be remembered as the one who analysed fashion sociology through pictures, snapping an ever changing social scene. 

 


Summer Sample Sale

17.06.2016

Between the 1st and 3rd of July we're opening the doors to our brand new studio for a huge summertime sample sale. We've unearthed some fantastic archive pieces and rare one-offs, complete with accessories and animals at absolutely jaw dropping discounts.  We're looking forward to welcoming one and all to the heart of Hackney, east London. See you there!

NEW STUDIO ADDRESS: Studio 1, The Textile Building, 29a Chatham Place, E9 6FJ

TIMES: Friday 1st July, 5 – 8pm | Sat 2nd July, 11 - 6pm | Sun 3rd July, 11 – 6pm


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